Jharkhand Rugra Wild Mushroom Curry Forest

Method

1. 1

   Clean the mushrooms: If using large fresh mushrooms, wipe each cap with a damp cloth — do not wash under running water as they absorb water and become soft when cooked. Remove the base of each stem. Cut large mushrooms into thick slices or quarters. Small mushrooms can be left whole.

2. 2

   Heat mustard oil until smoking: Heat 3 tbsp mustard oil in a wide heavy pan on high until smoking, then reduce to medium. The smoking is essential in Jharkhand cooking which uses mustard oil extensively.

3. 3

   Add cumin and asafoetida: Add cumin seeds — wait to crackle. Add asafoetida. Stir 10 seconds.

4. 4

   Add sliced garlic: Add finely sliced garlic. Fry stirring for 30 to 40 seconds until the garlic turns golden. The crispy garlic slices will be a textural element in the finished dish.

5. 5

   Cook the onion: Add finely chopped onion. Cook on medium heat for 8 minutes until golden.

6. 6

   Add green chilli: Add slit green chilli. Stir 30 seconds.

7. 7

   Add spice powders: Turn to low heat. Add turmeric, red chilli powder and coriander powder. Stir 1 minute on low.

8. 8

   Add the mushrooms: Add the cleaned, sliced mushrooms. Stir gently to coat with the spiced onion. Add salt.

9. 9

   Cook on medium-high without water: Cook on medium-high heat stirring every 1 to 2 minutes for 8 to 10 minutes. The mushrooms will first release a lot of moisture — keep cooking until all this moisture evaporates and the mushrooms begin frying in the oil. The rugra sabzi should be dry, not wet.

10. 10

    Serve: Scatter coriander leaves. Serve with steamed rice or rotis. The mushrooms should be golden, slightly caramelised at the edges and deeply fragrant from the mustard oil.

11. 11

    Note: Rugra is the Santhali and Mundari name for the large white edible mushrooms that emerge from the forest floor after the first monsoon rains in June-July. In the forests of Jharkhand, tribal communities including the Santhal, Munda and Ho people have foraged rugra for centuries. The mushrooms are highly prized and command premium prices at forest markets. Their meaty, earthy flavour makes them unlike any cultivated mushroom. The rugra season lasts only 4 to 6 weeks per year.