Payesh Nolen Gur Date Palm Rice

Method

1. 1

   What is nolen gur: Nolen gur is the liquid jaggery made by tapping date palm trees in West Bengal during winter (November to February). The sap flows only in cold weather and is collected each morning before sunrise. It has a distinctive dark golden colour and a complex caramel-molasses flavour unlike any other sweetener. It is what makes winter payesh different from the rest of the year.

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   Wash the rice: Wash the rice in 2 changes of water. Do not soak it for this recipe — the unwashed starch helps thicken the milk.

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   Bring milk to a boil: Pour 1 litre full-fat milk into a heavy-bottomed wide pot. Add the bay leaves. Bring to a full boil on medium-high heat, stirring frequently to prevent scorching.

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   Add rice to boiling milk: Once the milk boils, add the washed rice. Stir well. Reduce heat to medium-low.

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   Slow simmer with constant stirring: Cook on medium-low heat, stirring every 3 minutes, for 35 to 45 minutes. The milk will reduce gradually and the rice will dissolve into it, thickening the whole mixture. Scrape any cream layers that form on the sides back into the milk each time you stir.

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   Check consistency: After 35 minutes, test — the milk should have reduced by half and become noticeably thick. When you lift a spoonful and pour it back, it should fall in a slightly thick ribbon.

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   Remove from heat before adding nolen gur: This is a critical step. Remove the pot completely from the heat before adding the nolen gur. Adding nolen gur to boiling milk can cause it to split (curdle). Let the payesh cool for 5 minutes off the heat.

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   Add nolen gur: Pour the nolen gur gradually into the warm (not boiling) payesh while stirring gently. The milk will turn a beautiful warm amber-brown colour from the dark jaggery. Add cardamom powder and rose water. Stir gently.

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   Check sweetness: Taste the payesh. Nolen gur has a complex flavour — not just sweet but also slightly smoky and earthy. Add more nolen gur if not sweet enough. Stir after each addition.

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    Serve warm or at room temperature: Remove the bay leaves. Pour into small bowls or serve directly from the pot. Nolen gur payesh is served at room temperature — not chilled. In many Bengali homes it is served in shallow clay cups that add an earthy aroma.

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    Note: Nolen Gur Payesh is the most prized seasonal dessert of West Bengal — available only from November to February when date palm trees are tapped. The first nolen gur of the season is a cause for excitement in Bengali households. The famous sweet shops of Kolkata — Balaram Mullick, Bhim Nag, KC Das — bring out special nolen gur sweets from November onwards that sell out within hours.