Milagu Kuzhambu

Method

1. 1

   About Milagu Kuzhambu: Milagu means black pepper in Tamil. This is the medicinal Tamil gravy — a sharp, pungent tamarind broth with freshly ground pepper and cumin. It is made after Diwali to counteract heavy festival food, given to new mothers for recovery, and eaten with plain rice during illness. It is simple, powerful and genuinely good.

2. 2

   Extract tamarind: Soak the tamarind in 2 cups warm water for 15 minutes. Squeeze thoroughly and strain to get clear tamarind water.

3. 3

   Grind the pepper-cumin paste: In a small blender or pestle and mortar grind together 2 tsp black pepper, 1 tsp cumin seeds and 4 garlic cloves to a coarse paste with a little water. This freshly ground paste is what gives milagu kuzhambu its heat and character — pre-ground powder cannot replace it.

4. 4

   Make the tempering: Heat 3 tbsp sesame oil in a heavy pot on medium heat. Sesame oil is essential for this dish. Add mustard seeds and wait for them to pop. Add urad dal and fry until golden. Add dried red chillies, asafoetida and curry leaves. Fry 30 seconds.

5. 5

   Add the pepper paste: Add the freshly ground pepper-cumin-garlic paste to the tempered oil. Fry on medium heat for 2-3 minutes, stirring continuously, until the raw garlic smell disappears and the paste darkens slightly.

6. 6

   Add spices: Add 1/4 tsp turmeric and 1/2 tsp red chilli powder. Stir and cook 1 minute.

7. 7

   Pour in tamarind water: Add the tamarind water and salt. Bring to a vigorous boil then reduce to a medium simmer.

8. 8

   Simmer to reduce: Cook uncovered for 12-15 minutes until the kuzhambu reduces by about a third and thickens slightly. The raw tamarind smell will transform into a mellow, deep aroma.

9. 9

   Final seasoning: Taste — milagu kuzhambu should be sharp and peppery, tangy from tamarind, with a warming heat. Adjust salt. If too thin simmer 5 more minutes. If too thick add a little water.

10. 10

    Serve: Finish with 1 more tsp sesame oil drizzled on top. Serve hot with steamed rice and a dry vegetable side. Milagu kuzhambu is not eaten alone — a small serving poured over rice with a tsp of ghee is the traditional way.