Bihari Lemon Rice

Method

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   About this dish: Bihari Lemon Rice is a quick, fragrant rice prepared with mustard oil and panch phoron — the Bengali-influenced five-spice mix used widely in eastern India. It is the perfect way to use up leftover rice and tastes wonderful at room temperature, making it ideal for tiffin boxes.

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   Use cold cooked rice: Take 3 cups of cooked rice that has been cooled completely — preferably refrigerated overnight. Hot or warm rice goes mushy when tossed; cold rice keeps the grains separate.

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   Fluff and break clumps: Spread the cold rice on a wide plate. Use a fork to gently break any clumps so each grain is loose. Avoid pressing — broken grains turn the dish starchy.

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   Understand panch phoron: Panch phoron is a whole-spice mix of equal parts cumin seeds, fennel seeds, fenugreek seeds, mustard seeds and nigella (kalonji). You can buy it ready-mixed or combine the five seeds yourself. Do not grind it — the seeds are used whole.

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   Dry-roast the peanuts: Heat a heavy pan on medium heat. Add 1/4 cup raw peanuts and dry-roast for 4 to 5 minutes, shaking the pan often, until the skins darken and they smell nutty. Tip onto a plate; they will crisp further as they cool. Set aside.

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   Prepare the aromatics: Slit 2 green chillies lengthwise. Break 1 dried red chilli in half. Wash and dry 8 to 10 curry leaves on a paper towel — wet leaves splatter dangerously in hot oil. Grate 1 tsp ginger.

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   Heat the mustard oil correctly: Pour 2 tbsp mustard oil into a wide pan or kadhai on medium heat. Heat until it just begins to smoke and the sharp raw smell mellows — about 1 minute. This step is essential; raw mustard oil tastes bitter.

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   Lower the heat and temper: Reduce heat to medium-low. Add the panch phoron. Within 10 seconds the mustard seeds will start popping and the fenugreek will turn light brown. Do not let the fenugreek go dark or it turns bitter.

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   Add the chillies and curry leaves: Add the slit green chillies, broken dried red chilli and curry leaves. They will sizzle and crackle. Add the grated ginger and fry for 20 seconds.

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    Add turmeric: Sprinkle 1/2 tsp turmeric powder into the oil and stir for 5 seconds — turmeric burns very quickly so keep the heat low.

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    Add the rice: Tip in the cold cooled rice and a generous pinch of salt. Use a folding motion with a flat spatula or wooden spoon — lift from underneath and turn over, do not stir round and round. This keeps the grains intact.

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    Warm through evenly: Continue folding gently for 3 minutes until every grain is coated yellow and warmed through. The rice should look glossy.

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    Switch off the heat before adding lemon: This is the most important step. Take the pan off the heat completely. Squeeze in the juice of 2 lemons. If lemon juice hits a hot pan it turns bitter and loses its fresh aroma.

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    Fold in lemon and peanuts: Fold the lemon juice through the rice along with the roasted peanuts. Taste and add more salt or lemon as needed.

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    Garnish and rest: Scatter chopped fresh coriander over the top. Cover the pan loosely for 2 minutes so the flavours settle. Serve warm or at room temperature with plain yogurt or pickle.