Vatha Kuzhambu

Method

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   About Vatha Kuzhambu: Vatha Kuzhambu is a pungent, intensely flavoured Tamil Nadu curry made with sun-dried vegetables or berries (vathal) cooked in a tangy tamarind gravy. It is eaten with rice and a dollop of sesame oil and papad. The dried vegetables give it an extraordinary concentrated flavour that fresh vegetables cannot replicate.

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   The key ingredient — vathal: Vathal are sun-dried vegetables. The most popular are manathakkali vathal (dried black nightshade berries — very common in Tamil Nadu), sundakkai vathal (dried turkey berries) or dried bitter gourd. These are available at Tamil or South Indian grocery stores. If unavailable use a small amount of fresh bitter gourd or pearl onions as substitute.

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   Soak the tamarind: Take a large lemon-sized ball of tamarind (about 50g) and soak in 2 cups warm water for 20 minutes. Extract all the juice by squeezing thoroughly. Strain to remove fibres. Vatha kuzhambu uses more tamarind than most curries — the intense sourness is characteristic.

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   Fry the vathal: Heat 3 tbsp sesame oil (gingelly oil — do not substitute with regular oil as sesame oil is a defining flavour) in a heavy pot. Add the dried vathal and fry on medium heat for 2-3 minutes until they puff up slightly and turn darker. Remove and keep aside.

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   Make the tempering: In the same oil add 1 tsp mustard seeds and let pop. Add half tsp fenugreek seeds — they turn golden in 30 seconds. Add 2-3 dried red chillies and 1 sprig curry leaves. Add 2 shallots sliced and cook 3 minutes.

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   Add the masala: Add 1 tbsp sambar powder or vatha kuzhambu powder (available at South Indian stores), half tsp turmeric and 1 tsp red chilli powder. Stir and cook 2 minutes on low heat.

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   Add tamarind water: Pour in all the tamarind water. Add salt to taste. Bring to a boil. The tamarind water will turn deep golden red.

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   Simmer until thick: Cook on medium heat uncovered for 20-25 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the kuzhambu reduces and thickens significantly. It should coat the back of a spoon. The raw tamarind smell will give way to a mellow tangy aroma.

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   Add the fried vathal: Return the fried dried vegetables to the pot. Simmer for 5 more minutes.

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    Finish with sesame oil: Turn off heat and add 1 more tsp of sesame oil on top — this is important as it adds the characteristic flavour. Serve with steamed rice with a generous amount of the kuzhambu poured over. Accompany with pappadam and a small amount of sesame oil on the rice.