Taro Root Fermented Curry

Method

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   About Taro Root Fermented Curry: Colocasia (taro root) cooked with fermented soybean paste is a daily combination across Nyishi and Adi territories of Arunachal Pradesh. The earthiness of taro pairs beautifully with the umami depth of fermented soybean — a combination unique to Northeast Indian highland cooking. The dish is protein-rich, deeply nourishing, and uses two ingredients that store well in cold mountain conditions.

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   Understand colocasia: Colocasia (arbi in Hindi, taro root in English) is a tropical tuber with rough brown skin and starchy white flesh inside. Available at Indian groceries, particularly those with Bengali, South Indian, or Northeast Indian sections.

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   The critical safety warning: Raw colocasia contains calcium oxalate crystals that cause severe itching of skin and mouth. Always handle with gloves when peeling, and never taste raw. Cooking destroys these compounds completely; properly cooked taro is safe.

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   Prepare with gloves: Wear disposable kitchen gloves throughout the peeling and cubing. The crystals can cause hours of skin itching even after washing.

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   Peel and cube the taro: Use 400g of colocasia. Use a sturdy vegetable peeler to remove all the rough brown skin. Cut into 2cm cubes. The flesh inside should look uniformly white-cream.

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   The critical first boil: This is non-negotiable for safety. Place the cubed taro in a saucepan. Cover with plenty of cold water. Add 1 tsp salt. Bring to a rolling boil over high heat.

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   Boil for 10 minutes: Once boiling, cook for 10 minutes. The boiling water and salt extract the calcium oxalate compounds and pre-cook the taro. The water will become slightly cloudy — this is normal and contains the dissolved oxalates.

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   Drain and discard cooking water: Drain the taro through a colander. Important — discard the cooking water. Do not save it for soup or anything else; it carries the dissolved compounds.

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   Let the taro drip dry: Leave in the colander for 2-3 minutes to release excess moisture. The taro should be half-cooked at this stage — tender at the edges but still firm in the centre.

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    Understand pehak: Pehak (also called kinema or akhuni) is the Northeast Indian fermented soybean paste. Sold at Northeast Indian groceries.

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    If pehak is unavailable: Use 2 tbsp Korean doenjang or Japanese miso paste as substitute. The flavour profile differs slightly but the dish works.

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    Measure carefully: Use 2 tbsp pehak — fermented soybean is intensely flavoured.

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    Prepare the onion: Take 1 medium onion. Peel and chop into fine 5mm dice.

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    Prepare the garlic: Take 3 garlic cloves. Crush, peel and mince finely.

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    Prepare the green chillies: Take 2 fresh green chillies. Slit lengthwise.

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    Use a wide pan: Use a wide kadhai or heavy frying pan.

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    Heat the oil: Pour 2 tbsp neutral cooking oil into the pan over medium-high heat. Heat for 30 seconds until shimmering. Mustard oil works as substitute for more pungent flavour.

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    Fry the onion: Reduce heat to medium. Add the chopped onion. Stir-fry for 3 minutes, stirring often, until soft and just turning golden at the edges.

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    Add the garlic: Add the minced garlic. Stir for 1 minute until fragrant.

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    The critical pehak step: Add the 2 tbsp pehak to the pan. Use a spatula to break it up as it hits the hot oil. Stir constantly for 2 minutes — the pehak will melt into the oil and release its powerful fermented aroma. The kitchen will fill with a deeply savoury smell. Do not let it burn.

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    Add turmeric: Sprinkle in 1 tsp turmeric powder. Stir for 30 seconds.

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    Add the par-cooked taro: Tip in the par-cooked drained taro cubes. Stir to coat every cube in the pehak masala. The cubes will turn a beautiful pale yellow-tan.

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    Add water and chillies: Pour in 2 cups of hot water. Add the slit green chillies. Stir well to combine. The water should partially cover the cubes.

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    The critical taste check before salt: This is essential — taste before adding any salt. Pehak is already significantly salty from fermentation. Take a clean spoon, taste the gravy, and only add salt if needed (often 1/4 tsp or none at all).

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    Cover and simmer: Reduce heat to medium-low. Cover the pan with a lid. Cook for 20 minutes, lifting the lid every 5 minutes for a gentle stir.

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    Check taro doneness: After 20 minutes, the taro should be completely tender — easily pierced with a fork. The cubes should still hold their shape but feel soft throughout. If still firm in the centre, simmer 3-5 more minutes.

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    The consistency check: The curry is meant to be moderately thick — like a thick stew with chunks of taro in a glossy gravy. If too thin, simmer uncovered for 2-3 minutes. If too thick, stir in 1/4 cup hot water.

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    Mash some taro for body: Use the back of a wooden spoon to lightly crush 4-5 taro cubes against the side of the pan. This naturally thickens the gravy and gives the dish texture variety.

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    Check for safety: Taste a small piece of the cooked taro. There should be no scratchy or itching sensation in your mouth — that would indicate undercooked oxalates. Properly cooked taro is completely safe and slightly sweet-earthy in flavour. If any scratching, simmer 5 more minutes.

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    Final flavour adjustment: Taste again. The dish should hit you with multiple flavours — earthy taro, deeply fermented umami pehak, gentle chilli warmth, aromatic garlic. Adjust by adding more chilli (for heat) or a tiny pinch of sugar (to balance saltiness from pehak).

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    Garnish: Switch off the heat. Sprinkle 2 tbsp finely chopped spring onions (white and green parts) over the top. Some Arunachali cooks also add 1 tbsp finely chopped fresh coriander.

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    Serve with rice: Serve hot ladled over plain steamed rice — the most traditional Arunachali pairing. The thick curry mixes into the rice, creating a complete one-bowl meal.

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    Serving as part of a meal: Pair with a piece of grilled meat or a clear soup. The earthy taro is filling enough to be the main vegetarian centerpiece.

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    A cultural note: Taro and fermented soybean are both ingredients that can be stored through long winter months in highland Arunachali villages — taro keeps for weeks in cool storage, pehak lasts for months. This dish represents the wisdom of preserving food through the long cold seasons when fresh produce is scarce.

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    Leftover storage: Stored in the fridge in an airtight container, this curry keeps for 3-4 days and improves overnight. Reheat gently on the stovetop with a splash of water if too thick.