Shorshe Ilish Mustard Hilsa

Method

1. 1

   Make the mustard paste: Soak 3 tbsp yellow mustard seeds and 1 tbsp black mustard seeds in 1/4 cup water for 20 minutes. After soaking, grind them in a mixer with 3 green chilli, a pinch of salt and 2 tbsp fresh water to a very smooth paste. Mustard paste has a natural bitterness — adding a pinch of salt while grinding reduces the bitterness. The paste should be smooth, not gritty.

2. 2

   Add turmeric to mustard paste: Mix 1/2 tsp turmeric into the mustard paste. The turmeric reduces the bitterness further and adds colour. Taste the paste — it should be pungent, slightly bitter and very sharp. This is correct.

3. 3

   Clean and season the fish: Gently wash the hilsa steaks. Pat dry. Sprinkle a pinch of salt and turmeric. The hilsa is an oily fish and does not need to be fried before cooking — it is cooked directly in the mustard paste.

4. 4

   Heat mustard oil: Place a flat-bottomed covered pot (a kadai with a lid works well) on medium heat. Add 4 tbsp mustard oil. Heat until it just smokes, then reduce to medium.

5. 5

   Add nigella seeds: Add 1/2 tsp nigella seeds to the hot oil. They will crackle. Stir for 10 seconds.

6. 6

   Add mustard paste: Add the ground mustard-turmeric paste to the hot oil. Stir quickly to combine with the oil. Cook on medium heat for 2 minutes — the paste will cook in the oil and the raw sharp smell will reduce slightly.

7. 7

   Add water and create the sauce: Add 1/4 cup water to the mustard paste in the pan. Stir well. Add the slit green chilli. Add salt. The sauce will be thin and yellow — this is correct.

8. 8

   Add the fish carefully: Place the fish steaks in the sauce in a single layer. Spoon some sauce over the top of each steak. Add 2 tbsp more mustard oil drizzled over the fish — hilsa needs this extra oil as it is traditionally not fried first.

9. 9

   Cover and cook: Cover the pot tightly. Cook on low heat for 10 minutes. Do not open the lid during this time — the steam cooking inside is what gives shorshe ilish its uniquely moist, delicate texture.

10. 10

    Finish and serve: Open the lid. The fish should be cooked through and the sauce should have thickened from the natural oils released by the fish. Drizzle 1 tbsp raw mustard oil over the top before serving — this is the finishing touch of shorshe ilish. Serve immediately with steamed white rice.

11. 11

    Note: Ilish (hilsa) is the national fish of Bangladesh and the most well liked fish in West Bengal. Shorshe Ilish is served at Durga Puja, Bengali weddings and any celebration deemed important enough. During the monsoon season when fresh ilish arrives, Bengalis cancel other plans to eat this dish. The fat-streaked hilsa has such intense flavour that it requires no extra spices beyond mustard, green chilli and nigella.