Olan

Method

1. 1

   About Olan: Olan is a simple, elegant Kerala dish made with white pumpkin (ash gourd), red cowpeas (vanpayar) and coconut milk. It is one of the dishes served in the Onam Sadya (feast) and is a beautiful example of minimalist Kerala cooking where the ingredients speak for themselves.

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   Cook the cowpeas: Take quarter cup red cowpeas (vanpayar — small dark red kidney-shaped beans available at Kerala stores). Wash and pressure cook with 1 cup water and salt for 4-5 whistles until soft. If unavailable substitute with kidney beans or black-eyed peas.

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   Prepare the ash gourd: Peel 300g white ash gourd (kumbalanga). Remove seeds and cut into 4-5cm rectangular pieces about 1cm thick. Ash gourd is pale green on the outside and white inside. It has a very mild, subtle flavour.

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   Cook the ash gourd: In a pot combine the ash gourd pieces with the cooked cowpeas and their cooking liquid. Add half tsp turmeric, 2-3 green chillies slit lengthwise and half tsp salt. Add just enough water to cover. Cook on medium heat for 10-12 minutes until the ash gourd is tender and translucent.

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   Add thin coconut milk: Add 1 cup thin coconut milk. Simmer for 5 minutes. Do not stir vigorously — olan is a gentle dish.

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   Add thick coconut milk: Reduce heat to very low. Add 1 cup thick coconut milk. Stir very gently. Heat through for 3-4 minutes only.

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   The minimalist approach: Olan does not use any ground spices, no onion, no garlic, no tomatoes and no tempering masala. The beauty is in the clean flavours of ash gourd and coconut milk. Resist the urge to add more spices.

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   Add coconut oil: Turn off heat. Drizzle 1.5 tsp fresh raw coconut oil over the olan. Add a few fresh curry leaves. Gently stir once.

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   Adjust seasoning: Taste and add salt if needed. The olan should be mild, creamy, slightly sweet from the ash gourd and fragrant from the coconut oil.

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    Serve: Olan is served as part of the Onam Sadya or as an everyday side dish with steamed rice. It is one of the most soothing and gentle dishes in Indian cuisine — perfect when you want something light and nourishing.