Meen Varuval

Method

1. 1

   About Meen Varuval: Meen means fish in Tamil. Varuval means fried. This is the essential Tamil fish preparation — fish marinated in an aromatic spice paste and shallow fried in sesame oil until crispy outside and tender within. Any firm fish works but seer fish (vanjaram) is the most prized.

2. 2

   Clean and prepare the fish: Wash the fish pieces thoroughly. Pat completely dry with a kitchen towel — dry fish fries better and the marinade sticks well. If using thick steaks score the surface with 2-3 diagonal cuts on each side so the marinade penetrates.

3. 3

   Make the marinade: In a wide bowl mix together 1 tsp red chilli powder, 1/2 tsp Kashmiri red chilli powder, 1 tsp coriander powder, 1/2 tsp turmeric, 1 tsp fennel powder, 1/2 tsp black pepper, 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste, 1 tsp lemon juice, 2 tbsp rice flour (the rice flour creates the crispy coating), and salt. Add just enough water or oil to make a thick paste that coats the fish.

4. 4

   Marinate: Coat each fish piece thoroughly with the marinade, pressing into the cuts. Let marinate for at least 20-30 minutes at room temperature. Longer marination — up to 2 hours in the refrigerator — gives deeper flavour.

5. 5

   Heat the pan: Heat a heavy flat pan or cast iron skillet on medium-high heat. Add 3 tbsp sesame oil. Let the oil heat until shimmering but not smoking.

6. 6

   Fry the fish: Place the fish pieces in the pan leaving space between each — do not crowd. The fish should sizzle immediately when it touches the oil. Fry on medium-high heat without moving for 3-4 minutes until the bottom is deep golden and crispy.

7. 7

   Flip carefully: Using a wide spatula flip the fish carefully in one smooth motion. Fry the second side for 3-4 minutes until equally golden and crispy. Thick steaks may need an additional 2 minutes.

8. 8

   Add curry leaves: In the last minute of frying add a sprig of fresh curry leaves to the oil around the fish. They will crisp up beautifully and add a wonderful fragrance.

9. 9

   Drain: Remove the fish carefully and place on a wire rack — not paper towel — to stay crispy.

10. 10

    Serve: Serve immediately with steamed rice and kara kuzhambu or sambar. Meen varuval is best eaten fresh and hot. Squeeze a little lemon juice over the fish just before eating.