Varanasi Baati Chokha Fireside Purvanchal Version

Method

1. 1

   Make the Varanasi sattu filling: Mix sattu with ghee (not mustard oil as the Varanasi tradition uses ghee), minced garlic, grated ginger, minced green chilli, ajwain, lemon juice and salt. Add enough water to bring together — about 3 to 4 tbsp. The filling should be moist and hold its shape.

2. 2

   Make the dough: Combine wheat flour, ghee, ajwain and salt. Add water to form an extremely stiff dough. Divide into 8 balls.

3. 3

   Stuff each baati: Flatten each ball. Fill with sattu. Seal firmly. Roll into a smooth ball.

4. 4

   Bake: Bake at 200°C (400°F) for 30 to 35 minutes turning once, until deep golden. Or roast directly over a low gas flame for 15 to 18 minutes turning constantly.

5. 5

   Make the chokha: Roast potato, brinjal and tomato directly on a gas flame until completely charred on the outside. Cool. Peel all the charred skin. Mash together.

6. 6

   Season the chokha: Mix the mashed smoky vegetables with raw ghee (the Varanasi version uses ghee rather than mustard oil for the chokha), minced green chilli, red chilli powder, salt and coriander leaves.

7. 7

   Apply ghee to baked baati: While hot, dunk each baati in hot melted ghee for 1 minute.

8. 8

   Crack open: Press each baati to crack it open.

9. 9

   Serve alongside chokha.

10. 10

    Serve with chaas (buttermilk): A glass of salted spiced buttermilk is the traditional accompaniment at Varanasi ghat-side dhabas.

11. 11

    Note: The baati-chokha eaten at the riverside dhabas of Varanasi near the Ghats is specifically the Varanasi version — using ghee rather than mustard oil throughout (in both the filling and the chokha), reflecting the Brahminical food tradition of Varanasi where ghee is the sacred cooking medium. The smoky riverside dhabas along the Ganga serve this as their primary meal from early morning to late evening.