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Aloo Paratha
Stuffed whole-wheat flatbread with spiced potato filling — the quintessential Punjabi...
A slow-cooked, intensely spiced broth of mutton trotters and marrow bones cooked overnight until the collagen dissolves into a thick, gelatinous, deeply flavoured soup — the dawn meal of Lucknow eaten after morning prayers. Nahari means morning in Arabic.
Wash the trotters: Wash the mutton trotters thoroughly in several changes of water. Soak in salted water for 30 minutes to remove any blood. Rinse again.
Heat ghee and cook onions: Heat 4 tbsp ghee in a large, heavy pot. Add finely chopped onions. Cook on medium-high heat for 15 minutes until very deep golden-brown.
Add ginger and garlic: Add ginger paste and garlic paste. Stir 3 minutes.
Add spice powders: Turn to low. Add red chilli powder, coriander powder, cumin powder, turmeric, black pepper, mace and nutmeg. Stir continuously for 3 to 4 minutes on low heat.
Add trotters and water: Add the cleaned trotters. Stir to coat with the spiced masala. Add 6 cups water and salt. Bring to a full boil.
Slow cook for 3 to 4 hours: Reduce to the lowest heat. Cover tightly. Cook for 3 to 4 hours — stirring every 30 minutes. The long slow cooking is essential — the collagen from the trotters dissolves into the broth creating the characteristic thick, gelatinous consistency. The meat should fall away from the bones completely by the end.
Add the wheat flour slurry: After 3 hours, whisk 2 tbsp wheat flour with 4 tbsp water until completely smooth. Pour into the simmering nahari while stirring. Cook 10 more minutes — the slurry thickens the broth further.
Add garam masala: Add garam masala. Stir.
Check consistency: The Lucknowi nahari should be thick enough to coat the back of a spoon but still flowing.
Serve with accompaniments: Serve in deep bowls with strips of fresh ginger, slit green chilli, chopped coriander and a squeeze of lemon. Accompany with roomali roti or naan.
Note: Nahari is the defining Lucknow dawn meal — traditionally eaten before sunrise after the Fajr prayer and before the day's fast (during Ramzan) or as a strengthening meal before the day's work. The long overnight cooking in Lucknow's traditional eateries (nahari shops) begins at midnight and the nahari is ready by 5 am. It is considered a restorative meal — the collagen-high broth is believed to provide joint health benefits in traditional practice.
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