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Hilsa fish pieces marinated in a yellow mustard paste and steamed wrapped in turmeric leaves — a preparation from the rivers of 24 Parganas and Nadia districts where turmeric plants grow along the riverbanks and their leaves are used for wrapping the fish during steaming.
Make the yellow-black mustard paste: Drain soaked yellow and black mustard seeds. Grind together with green chilli, turmeric and salt. Add 3 tbsp water. Grind 4 minutes to a very smooth, pale yellow paste. Mix in 2 tbsp raw mustard oil.
Coat the hilsa: Generously coat each hilsa piece with the thick mustard paste on all sides.
Rest 20 minutes: Allow the mustard paste to penetrate the fish.
Prepare turmeric leaves: If fresh turmeric leaves are available, gently warm them over a flame for 5 seconds to make them supple. Turmeric leaves have a distinct earthy, slightly peppery fragrance.
Wrap each piece: Place one hilsa piece on a turmeric leaf or banana leaf. Wrap firmly. Secure with a toothpick.
Set up steamer: Bring water to a vigorous boil in a steamer.
Steam for 10 to 12 minutes: Place wrapped parcels in the steamer tray. Steam on high heat for 10 to 12 minutes.
Test one parcel: Open carefully — the hilsa should be cooked through, opaque and the mustard paste should be set.
Serve wrapped: Bring parcels to the table unwrapped.
Open at the table: Unwrap at the table. The combined fragrance of hilsa, mustard and turmeric leaf is the experience. Serve with steamed rice.
Note: Turmeric leaves (holud pata) give this hilsa preparation a distinctly different character from banana leaf wrapping — the essential oils in turmeric leaves add an earthy, almost camphoraceous fragrance that complements the pungency of the mustard paste and the fat thickness of hilsa. The combination of yellow and black mustard seeds gives a more complex, less harsh paste than either seed alone. This preparation is from the agricultural districts of 24 Parganas and Nadia where both turmeric cultivation and hilsa fishing are traditional.
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