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Freshwater prawns in light Assamese mustard gravy — river blessing on a plate
About Assam Prawn Curry: Freshwater prawns from the Brahmaputra and its tributaries are the prized seafood of Assam — sweeter and more delicate than sea prawns. The Assamese version of prawn curry uses mustard oil and mustard paste for the pungent character, with light spicing that lets the natural sweetness of the prawn shine through. It is simple, fast, and finished in under 25 minutes.
Choose the right prawns: Use 400g of medium freshwater prawns. Each prawn should be about thumb-sized. Look for plump, firm flesh with a clear translucent appearance. Avoid prawns that look grey, smell ammonia-like or feel slimy — those are old.
Buy fresh or use thawed frozen: If using frozen prawns, thaw them slowly overnight in the fridge. Never thaw in warm water — fast thawing produces mushy prawns.
Clean and devein: Pull off the heads and the legs. Peel off the shells. Some Assamese cooks leave the tails on for presentation; either way is fine. Make a shallow cut along the back of each prawn and pull out the dark vein with the tip of a knife — this gritty digestive tract makes the prawns taste muddy if left in.
Wash and pat dry: Rinse the cleaned prawns in cold water. Pat completely dry on kitchen paper. Wet prawns release water and steam in the pan rather than searing — drying is essential.
Marinate the prawns: Place the prawns in a wide bowl. Add 1 tsp turmeric powder and 1/2 tsp salt. Massage the marinade into every prawn. Let marinate for 15-20 minutes at room temperature, or up to 1 hour in the fridge. Marinating is essential; it removes any fishy smell and seasons the flesh through.
Prepare the mustard paste: Take 1 tbsp yellow mustard seeds. Soak in 2 tbsp warm water for 15 minutes — soaking removes bitterness. Grind to a smooth paste in a small grinder with 1 fresh green chilli and a tiny pinch of salt. The salt during grinding stops the mustard turning acrid.
Prepare the onion: Take 1 medium onion. Peel and chop into very fine 5mm dice — small dice releases flavour faster.
Prepare the garlic: Take 3 garlic cloves. Crush, peel and mince finely.
Heat the mustard oil correctly: Pour 2 tbsp mustard oil into a wide heavy-bottomed pan or kadhai over medium-high heat. Heat for about 1 minute until the oil just begins to smoke and the harsh raw smell mellows. This step is essential for fish and prawn dishes.
Fry the onion: Reduce heat to medium. Add the chopped onion. Stir-fry for 5-6 minutes, stirring often, until soft and just turning golden at the edges. Do not over-brown for prawn curry — the gravy should stay light, not deep brown.
Add the garlic: Add the minced garlic. Stir for 1 minute until fragrant.
Add the chilli powder: Sprinkle in 1 tsp red chilli powder. Stir for 15-20 seconds — chilli powder burns very quickly so move on.
Add the mustard paste: Pour in the prepared mustard paste. Stir for 1 minute on medium heat. The paste will turn slightly darker as it cooks. Do not over-cook the mustard paste — long cooking turns it bitter.
Add the prawns: Add the marinated prawns to the pan in a single layer. The pan will hiss as the prawns hit the hot masala. Stir gently to coat every prawn.
The critical sear: Cook on high heat for 3 minutes, turning the prawns once halfway through. The prawns will turn from translucent grey to opaque pink-orange — that is when they are nearly done. High heat is essential; low heat steams the prawns rather than searing them.
Add water: Pour in 1/2 cup hot water. Stir gently to lift any masala from the bottom. The water should just create a thin gravy around the prawns.
Simmer briefly: Reduce heat to medium-low. Simmer uncovered for 4-5 minutes. The gravy will thicken slightly and the prawns will absorb the flavours. Do not over-simmer — over-cooked prawns turn rubbery.
Check doneness: The prawns are done when they have curled slightly and the flesh is fully opaque pink-orange. The gravy should look thin and pale yellow-orange, glossy with the mustard oil.
Final seasoning: Taste a small amount of gravy. Adjust salt — about 1/4 tsp may be needed since the prawns are already salted. Some Assamese cooks add 1/2 tsp sugar at this stage to balance the mustard sharpness; this is optional and gives a beautifully rounded flavour.
Garnish and serve: Switch off the heat. Sprinkle 2 tbsp finely chopped fresh coriander over the top. Serve immediately while the prawns are at peak texture — within 15 minutes of cooking. Serve hot over steamed Joha rice (or any plain steamed rice). The pairing of fragrant rice with the delicate sweet prawns and pungent mustard gravy is a quintessential Brahmaputra Valley meal.
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