Erissery

Method

1. 1

   About Erissery: Erissery is a thick, creamy Kerala curry made with pumpkin and black-eyed peas cooked in coconut paste and finished with a roasted coconut tempering. It is a staple of the Onam Sadya feast and has a distinctive earthy sweetness from the pumpkin balanced by the roasted coconut.

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   Soak the black-eyed peas: Take half cup black-eyed peas (vanpayar or lobiya). Wash and soak for 4-6 hours. Drain and pressure cook with 1.5 cups water and salt for 4-5 whistles until soft. Keep the cooking liquid.

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   Prepare the pumpkin: Peel 400g yellow pumpkin (or red pumpkin). Remove seeds and cut into medium cubes about 3cm. Yellow pumpkin has natural sweetness that balances the spices beautifully.

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   Cook the pumpkin: In a pot add the pumpkin cubes with half cup water, half tsp turmeric, half tsp red chilli powder, a pinch of cumin and salt. Cook covered on medium heat for 10-12 minutes until pumpkin is completely soft and mashable.

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   Make coconut paste: Blend 1 cup fresh grated coconut with half tsp cumin seeds, 2 green chillies and 2 garlic cloves with a little water to a coarse paste — not completely smooth. Keep a little grated coconut aside for the tempering.

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   Combine: Add the cooked black-eyed peas to the pot with pumpkin. Mash the pumpkin slightly — about half the pumpkin should be mashed to thicken the curry while keeping some chunks. Add the coconut paste and mix well.

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   Cook together: Simmer on medium heat for 8-10 minutes, stirring regularly, until the mixture thickens and the coconut is cooked through. Add the peas cooking liquid to adjust consistency.

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   Make the roasted coconut tempering: This is the signature finish of erissery. Heat 2 tbsp coconut oil in a small pan. Add the reserved grated coconut and fry on medium heat for 5-6 minutes, stirring continuously, until it turns deep golden brown and crispy — almost like dry roasted coconut. Add 1 tsp mustard seeds and let pop. Add curry leaves and 2 dried red chillies.

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   Add tempering: Pour the entire roasted coconut tempering over the curry and mix in. The roasted coconut adds an incomparable nutty, smoky depth.

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    Serve: Erissery should be thick — almost like a dry curry. Serve with steamed rice as part of an Onam Sadya or everyday meal.