Roasted fermented fish pounded with fresh green chillies and garlic into a pungent, intensely savoury paste — the most important daily condiment of all Tripuri cooking.
Ingredients
2 to 3 pieces berma (dried fermented fish — each piece is about 3 to 4 cm; available at North-East Indian stores; berma is different from fish sauce — it is dried and fermented whole)
6 to 8 fresh green chillies — adjust to heat tolerance
4 garlic cloves — peeled
1 tbsp mustard oil
1/4 tsp black salt (optional)
Regular salt to taste only if needed
2 tbsp fresh coriander
Method
Roast the berma pieces in a dry pan on medium heat for 2 minutes on each side, or hold over a gas flame with tongs.
The berma will sizzle and the aroma will deepen to a more complex, cooked umami. Roasting before pounding is essential — it reduces the sharpness and develops depth.
Roast the green chillies in a dry pan or over a flame until slightly blistered and charred in spots.
Roasting mellows raw chilli sharpness while adding smokiness.
Pound the roasted berma, roasted green chillies and garlic together in a mortar and pestle.
Pound to a coarse, textured paste — not completely smooth. The chunky texture is part of the character of this condiment.
Add mustard oil and mix. Add black salt if using.
Taste before adding regular salt — berma is extremely salty.
Add fresh coriander. Pound briefly to combine.
Store in a sealed jar in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.
The flavour improves after the first day as the ingredients meld.