Roasted fermented fish paste pounded with fresh green chilli, garlic and ginger — the most frequently used condiment in Tripura. Berma (fermented dried fish) is to Tripuri cooking what ngari is to Manipuri cooking — the defining fermented ingredient.
Ingredients
3 to 4 pieces berma (fermented dried fish — specific to Tripura; available at Northeast specialty stores; ngari from Manipur can substitute; or use 1 tbsp fish sauce mixed with 1 tsp dried shrimp paste)
4 to 5 green chilli
6 garlic cloves
1 inch ginger
salt to taste
a few drops of mustard oil
Method
Roast the berma: Place berma pieces in a dry pan or directly over a low flame. Roast for 30 to 60 seconds per side until fragrant and slightly charred. Roasting transforms the raw pungency of fermented fish into a deeper, more complex savouriness.
Roast garlic: Roast whole garlic cloves in a dry pan for 3 to 4 minutes until softened and the skin darkens. Cool and peel.
Roast green chilli: Roast the green chilli briefly over a flame or in the dry pan for 1 minute until blistered.
Pound everything together: In a stone mortar, begin pounding the roasted berma. Add the roasted garlic. Pound together firmly for 2 to 3 minutes until the berma breaks down.
Add green chilli: Add the roasted green chilli. Pound together. The chilli will break down and mix with the berma paste.
Add ginger: Add the ginger (raw or roasted). Pound until incorporated.
Season with salt: Add salt to taste. Pound once more. Berma is already salty — taste carefully before adding much salt.
Add mustard oil: Add a few drops of raw mustard oil. Stir with the pestle.
Check texture: The berma chutney should be rough — coarse and textured, not smooth. Some pieces of fish should still be visible.
Serve: Serve in a small bowl alongside any Tripuri meal. A small amount goes a long way — the flavour is very intense.
Note: Berma chutney is the fundamental condiment of Tripura — used in nearly every preparation either as a final condiment or as a cooking ingredient. Berma (fermented dried fish specific to Tripura) is made from small freshwater fish dried and fermented for weeks to months. It is so central to Tripuri food culture that the Tripura government has been working on a GI tag for berma as a distinctive regional product. This chutney version is the simplest application — just pounded with chilli and garlic.