Mutton pieces cooked completely dry in an intensely spiced masala with coconut and sesame — the specifically Telangana dry mutton preparation where every drop of moisture is cooked off until the masala clings as a crust to each piece. The Telangana counterpart to the Kolhapuri sukka.
Make the dry masala: Grind together: dark-roasted coconut, roasted sesame, dried red chilli, roasted coriander seeds, roasted cumin seeds, cloves, cardamom and cinnamon to a coarse, dry powder — not a paste. This dry powder is the crust-forming masala.
Heat oil: Heat 3 tbsp oil in a wide, heavy pan on high.
Sear mutton: Add mutton. Sear on high heat without moving for 4 minutes. Turn and sear the other side. Remove.
Cook onions in same oil: Cook onions for 15 minutes until very dark golden.
Add ginger and garlic: Cook 3 minutes.
Add curry leaves: Add curry leaves — they crackle in the hot oil.
Add dry masala powder: Add the ground dry masala powder along with red chilli powder and turmeric. Cook on low heat stirring 2 minutes until the coconut-sesame masala turns fragrant and darker.
Return mutton: Add the seared mutton. Stir to coat every piece with the dry masala.
Add minimal water and salt: Add only 1/4 cup water and salt. Cook on medium-high stirring frequently.
Dry completely: Continue cooking uncovered for 30 to 40 minutes, stirring every 5 minutes, until all moisture evaporates and the dry masala forms a dark, fragrant crust on each piece of mutton. Serve with rice or sorghum roti.
Note: Golichina Mamsam (golichina = cooked until dry in Telugu, mamsam = meat) is the Telangana technique of cooking mutton completely dry until the masala forms a crust — the iguru technique applied to meat. The use of dry-roasted coconut and sesame in the masala is specifically Telangana-Andhra — these two ingredients in combination create a dry, fragrant coating that is different from the wet coconut-based curries of the Kerala and Tamil Nadu coast. Served at Telangana village celebrations alongside the rice and dal.