Payox Rice Kheer

Ingredients

• - ½ cup Joha aromatic rice or basmati
• - 1 litre full-fat milk
• - ¼ cup sugar
• - ¼ tsp cardamom
• - Pinch saffron
• - 2 tbsp cashews and raisins

Method

1. About Payox: Payox is the festive Assamese rice pudding made with the prized aromatic Joha rice — the prized native rice variety of Assam, naturally sweet-fragrant. Payox is incomplete without Joha, just as Bihu is incomplete without payox. The dish is offered during Bihu (Assamese new year), at weddings, at religious celebrations, and given to guests as a traditional welcome.
2. Choose Joha aromatic rice: Use 1/2 cup of Joha rice — the prized aromatic short-grain rice native to Assam. If Joha is unavailable, basmati works as substitute but produces a different less aromatic kheer.
3. The difference between Joha and other aromatic rices: Joha is short-grain (similar to Govindbhog from Bengal), while basmati is long-grain. Joha breaks down more during cooking, producing a creamier texture.
4. Wash and soak the rice: Wash the rice in 3 changes of cold water until the water runs almost clear. Soak in cold water for 15 minutes.
5. Prepare the saffron: Take a small pinch of saffron threads — about 6-8 strands. Place in a small bowl with 2 tbsp warm milk. Let soak for 15 minutes.
6. Measure the cardamom: Use 1/4 tsp cardamom powder. Freshly ground from whole pods is dramatically more aromatic.
7. Prepare the nuts and raisins: Use 1 tbsp cashews and 1 tbsp raisins (kishmish). Chop the cashews roughly into small pieces.
8. Use a heavy-bottomed pot: Thin pots will scorch the milk on the bottom — burnt milk ruins the entire kheer and is unsalvageable.
9. Use full-fat whole milk: Use 1 litre (about 4 cups) of full-fat whole milk. Skimmed or low-fat milk produces a thin watery kheer.
10. Fry the cashews and raisins first: In a small pan, heat 1 tsp ghee. Add the chopped cashews. Stir for 30 seconds until lightly golden. Add the raisins. They will plump within 15 seconds. Lift everything out with a slotted spoon. Set aside for garnishing.
11. Boil the milk: Pour the remaining milk (about 950ml after taking 2 tbsp for saffron) into the heavy pot. Place over medium heat. Watch carefully — milk loves to overflow. As soon as milk approaches a boil, reduce heat to low.
12. Add the rice: Drain the soaked rice. Add to the simmering milk. Stir well to prevent the rice from clumping at the bottom.
13. The slow cook: Simmer on low heat for 35 minutes, stirring every 5 minutes with a wooden spoon. This slow cooking is what produces the thick creamy texture and lets the Joha aroma develop fully. Each time you stir, scrape the milk solids forming on the sides and bottom back into the kheer.
14. Watch the texture: After 25 minutes the rice will be soft and the milk slightly thickened. After 35 minutes it should be visibly thicker — a wooden spoon dragged through should leave a brief trail.
15. The Joha aroma: At this point, the kitchen should be filled with the gentle floral aroma that defines Joha — sweet, slightly milky, deeply fragrant. This aroma is the soul of payox.
16. Add sugar: Add 1/4 cup sugar. Stir until fully dissolved — about 1 minute. The kheer will thin slightly as sugar dissolves; continue cooking 2-3 more minutes to thicken back up.
17. Add saffron and cardamom: Pour in the saffron-infused milk along with the threads. Sprinkle 1/4 tsp cardamom powder. Stir gently. The kheer will turn a beautiful pale golden orange.
18. Final cook: Simmer for 5 more minutes on low heat, stirring once or twice. The flavours will meld and the colour deepens.
19. Final taste: The kheer should taste richly creamy, sweet but not cloying, with clear saffron and cardamom notes coming through the deep Joha rice character. Adjust by adding 1 tbsp more sugar if you prefer sweeter.
20. Garnish: Sprinkle the fried cashews and raisins over the top. For a more festive look, scatter a few extra saffron threads from the soaking water.
21. Serve warm or chilled: Both are excellent. The Bihu tradition is to serve warm immediately after offering to deities (puja prasad style); for festive home meals or summer days, chill in the fridge for 2 hours and serve cold.
22. The Bihu serving tradition: At Bihu celebrations, payox is served in small earthen bowls (sorai). The natural clay imparts a subtle earthy flavour and keeps the kheer at the perfect temperature.
23. The ritual moment: At Bihu, payox is the first sweet offered to deities at the morning puja, then served to guests as prasad. The combination of new harvest rice, fresh winter milk, and the year's saffron and cardamom symbolises abundance and prosperity for the year ahead.
24. Leftover storage: Stored in the fridge in an airtight container, payox keeps for 3-4 days. The texture firms up considerably overnight. Refresh by stirring in 2-3 tbsp warm milk before reheating gently on the stovetop.