Buckwheat pancakes of the Monpa tribe — hearty nutritious morning bread of Tawang district

Ingredients

Method

  1. About Khura Buckwheat Pancake: Khura is the buckwheat pancake of the Monpa people of Tawang — where Tibetan, Bhutanese, and Arunachali food cultures converge. The dish is a daily staple in Tawang district, Arunachal's northwest corner, where the cultural influences are predominantly Buddhist-Tibetan rather than the Hindu-tribal traditions of the rest of Arunachal Pradesh. Buckwheat thrives at high altitudes where wheat does not grow well, making it the foundational grain of the Monpa highland villages.
  2. Understand buckwheat: Use 2 cups of buckwheat flour. Despite the name, buckwheat is not related to wheat — it is the seed of a flowering plant in the rhubarb family. Naturally gluten-free, exceptionally nutritious, with a distinctive earthy nutty character.
  3. Where to find buckwheat flour: Available at health food stores, Asian markets (sometimes labelled "soba flour"), or online specialty grain retailers. Indian groceries with North Indian sections often stock kuttu atta, which is buckwheat flour ground for fasting foods.
  4. The buckwheat colour: Buckwheat flour comes in two main types — light buckwheat flour (made from hulled groats, paler) and dark buckwheat flour (made from whole groats including hulls, darker and more pronounced flavour). Either works for khura; the dark version is more traditional and nutritious.
  5. The critical egg: Use 1 egg. The egg provides binding — without it, gluten-free buckwheat flour does not hold together well. The egg is essential for proper khura texture.
  6. If egg-free needed: Substitute with 2 tbsp flax meal mixed with 4 tbsp water (let sit 5 minutes to thicken). The result is acceptable but the egg version is more authentic.
  7. Mix the batter: In a wide bowl combine the 2 cups buckwheat flour and 1/2 tsp salt. Whisk briefly to distribute the salt.
  8. Add the egg: Crack the egg into the flour. Beat the egg gently with a fork.
  9. Add water gradually: Have 1 cup water ready (warm or cold both work). Pour about 3/4 cup over the flour-egg mixture. Whisk vigorously with a fork or whisk to combine.
  10. The consistency goal: The batter should be thin and flowing — like crepe batter. When you lift the whisk, the batter should drip in a fast continuous stream, not a thick ribbon.
  11. Adjust the consistency: If too thick, add 1 tbsp water at a time. If too thin (rare), add 1 tbsp flour.
  12. Let the batter rest: Cover and let rest for 5 minutes. The brief rest allows the buckwheat starches to fully hydrate, producing a smoother batter.
  13. The Monpa preference: Some Monpa cooks let the batter rest longer (up to 30 minutes) for an even smoother texture. The 5-minute rest is the practical minimum.
  14. Use a flat iron pan: Use a wide flat heavy pan or non-stick frying pan. Cast iron is excellent for traditional khura — the heat distribution produces the right crispy edges.
  15. Heat the pan: Place the pan over medium heat. Wait 2 minutes for it to get evenly hot. Test by flicking a few drops of water — they should sizzle and evaporate within 2-3 seconds.
  16. Use butter for cooking: Use 1 tbsp unsalted butter (or yak butter for the most authentic Tawang character). The butter provides the rich aromatic character that makes Monpa khura distinctive.
  17. If yak butter unavailable: Regular unsalted butter works as substitute, especially European-style butter (slightly higher fat content).
  18. The critical first cook: Add a small knob of butter to the pan. As it melts and starts to foam, immediately pour a ladle of batter into the centre.
  19. The spread technique: As the batter hits the pan, tilt the pan in circular motions to spread the batter into a thin even round disc — about 18cm wide.
  20. Why tilt rather than spread: Tilting the pan distributes the batter naturally and produces an even disc. Pressing with a spatula can damage the developing pancake.
  21. Cook on the first side: Cook for 2 minutes. The bottom should turn deeply golden with crispy edges, and bubbles should appear and pop on the surface. The edges should look set.
  22. The doneness check: After 2 minutes, the surface should look mostly dry — no wet patches. If still wet, cook 30-45 more seconds.
  23. Flip carefully: Use a wide flat spatula to gently flip the pancake. The bottom should be deeply golden brown.
  24. Cook the second side: Cook for 1 more minute. The second side does not need to brown as deeply as the first.
  25. Serve immediately: Slide the cooked khura onto a plate. Serve hot — buckwheat pancakes are at their peak texture within minutes of cooking.
  26. Work in batches: Continue making pancakes one at a time, adding fresh butter to the pan each time. Keep finished pancakes warm on a plate covered with a kitchen towel.
  27. The traditional Tawang serving: Khura is most traditionally served with butter on top (a small knob melts into the warm pancake), drizzled with wild Himalayan honey. The combination of buckwheat, butter, and honey is the iconic Monpa breakfast.
  28. For savoury: Some Monpa families serve khura with chilli pickle for a savoury contrast. The combination of plain buckwheat pancake and spicy pickle is genuinely satisfying.
  29. For a complete Monpa breakfast: Pair with butter tea (recipe id 1116) — the classic Tawang morning combination. The salty butter tea complements the gentle nutty pancake beautifully.
  30. For children: Khura makes excellent breakfast for children — easy to digest, naturally gluten-free, and providing sustained energy from buckwheat's complex carbohydrates.
  31. Serve with butter and honey: This is the iconic Monpa preparation. Place a knob of butter on the warm pancake; drizzle with 1 tbsp honey. Wild Himalayan honey is most authentic but any high-quality raw honey works.
  32. Serve with chilli pickle: For savoury contrast, place a small portion of chilli pickle on the side. Diners can have multiple pancakes — sweet with butter-honey, savoury with pickle.
  33. Variations: Some Monpa families add 2 tbsp finely chopped fresh herbs (chives, coriander) to the batter for a savoury version. Others serve with cheese for substantial breakfast.
  34. A cultural note: The khura tradition reflects the deep cultural connection between Arunachal Pradesh's Tawang region and Tibet — a relationship that persists despite political boundaries. The dish, like butter tea, is essentially a Tibetan-Bhutanese tradition adapted to local conditions. Eating khura connects you to centuries of Himalayan Buddhist culture.
  35. A nutritional note: Buckwheat is exceptionally rich in protein (especially the amino acid lysine, often deficient in grains), fibre, and minerals. It is also low-glycemic and gluten-free. Modern nutritionists recognise buckwheat as one of the most nutritious grains available — making khura genuinely healthy.
  36. Leftover storage: Stored in the fridge wrapped in foil, khura keep for 1 day. Refresh by warming briefly in a hot dry pan for 30 seconds per side. They go softer with refrigeration; better to make fresh.