Chana dal cooked in a thick yogurt and ghee-based gravy with whole spices — the centrepiece dish of the Himachali Dham festive meal prepared by the Botis temple cooks.
Ingredients
1 cup chana dal (split Bengal gram) — soaked for 2 hours and drained
1.5 cups thick yogurt — whisked smooth
3 tbsp ghee
1 bay leaf
3 green cardamom pods — lightly crushed
2 black cardamom pods — lightly cracked
1 cinnamon stick — 3 cm
3 cloves
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp coriander powder
1/2 tsp turmeric
1/2 tsp red chilli powder
1/2 tsp garam masala
Salt to taste
1/2 cup milk
Method
Understand madra: Madra is the most important dish of the Himachali Dham (the traditional feast served on banana leaves at weddings, religious festivals and community gatherings in Himachal Pradesh). It is prepared exclusively by specialist cooks called Botis who are hereditary cooks from specific brahmin families. The defining characteristic is the yogurt-ghee gravy which is thick, mildly sweet and aromatic with whole Kashmiri spices.
Cook chana dal: Pressure cook the soaked chana dal with 2 cups water and 1/4 tsp turmeric for 3 to 4 whistles. The dal should be cooked but holding its shape — not mushy. Drain and set aside. Save the cooking liquid.
Heat ghee: Heat 3 tbsp ghee in a heavy pan. This is the generous amount required for authentic madra — do not reduce. Add bay leaf, green cardamom, black cardamom, cinnamon stick and cloves. Fry for 30 seconds until fragrant.
Add cumin seeds: Add 1 tsp cumin seeds and let them splutter for 20 seconds.
Add yogurt — the critical step: Turn heat to very low. Add the whisked yogurt to the hot ghee. Stir continuously as you add it — if the heat is too high and you stop stirring the yogurt will curdle and separate into whey and curd solids. Keep stirring on low heat for 5 minutes as the yogurt heats gently and begins to cook.
Cook yogurt until colour changes: Continue stirring the yogurt on medium-low heat for 8 to 10 minutes. The yogurt will go from white to a pale golden-cream colour as its proteins cook and it develops a deeper flavour. This step is what makes madra different from other yogurt curries.
Add spice powders: Add 1 tsp coriander powder, 1/2 tsp turmeric, 1/2 tsp red chilli powder and salt. Stir and cook for 2 minutes.
Add milk: Add 1/2 cup milk to the yogurt gravy. Stir well. This balances the sourness of the yogurt and gives the madra its characteristic mellow, creamy flavour.
Add chana dal: Add the cooked chana dal to the yogurt gravy. Add 1/2 cup of the saved dal cooking liquid. Stir gently to combine.
Simmer slowly: Simmer on very low heat for 20 to 25 minutes, stirring every 5 minutes, until the gravy has thickened and coats the dal. Add 1/2 tsp garam masala. Taste and adjust salt. Serve as part of the Dham meal with rice and other side preparations.